(in no apparent order)
1) Investigate (and sometimes try) odd and magical plant medicines. Gracias for the healing!
2) Speak and learn a bit more Español, enough to have a pleasant conversation... and sometimes make a complete fool of myself.
3) Write postcards, my blog, and in my journal. (and please let me know when you get a postcard - they don't always make it!)
4) Cook and eat weird fruits, vegetables, and meat - often with surprising and/or disgusting results. I've learned that fruits that are dark red or purple on the outside, and yellow/orange on the inside, are likely terrible.
5) Chew absurd amounts of coca, and ponder the untrucacies of existence (often from a hammock, trail, bed, or canoe)
6) Drink (medicine), purge, repeat.
7) Meet new and interesting people, in the weirdest of places (hostal kitchen, public transit, Inca ruins, jungle)
8) Appreciate the subtle flows of the universe, and the amazing synchronicities of life.
9) Read - a lot! I've read 9 books so far :)
10) Share music and movies, and find new gems to DJ with.
11) Dream (by day or night)
12) Make plans, evaluate, modify... ad infinitum.
13) Let go, 'let flo', and strip myself down to the bare essentials, the deeper me. I am me, solo... and it feels SO good!
14) Wander in city markets, see bizzare things for sale, and eat a big meal for $1.40.
15) Do nothing. It's something. Especially if it's nothing.
16) Drink coffee and smoke mapachos, while watching the world go by.
17) Boats, boats, boats. Huge ones, small ones, thatch-roofed ones, motorized ones, canoes...
18) Explore the amazing, massive music collection my wonderful sister gave me before I left. THANK YOU!!
19) Observe bird, plant, and animal species, and appreciate the stunning diversity this planet hosts.
20) Take photos of plants, sunsets, and scenery.... but none of myself.
21) Do any of the above while in a hammock.
22) Do any of the above while drinking a cold beer (there's even dark beer in Peru!!)
23) Feel joy and satisfaction in my heart, and realize, bit by bit, who I really am, and what gifts I have to give.
24) Be rediculous (often including jokes that some people just don't understand...)
25) Chill out with los duendes (gnomes... Peru is FULL of them!)
A Mushroom Kingdom
Thursday, March 24, 2011
Thursday, March 17, 2011
Self-Bonding, Birthdays, and Boats: Moving on, leaving Iquitos
Night has descended, gently shadowing a day of peace and flowing tranquility. Sunrise to sunset, to sunrise again, ´time´as I´ve known it forgets it´s own meaning, and dissolves into a current. Eat when hungry, sleep when tired, and look at the hour only when relevant. My usual calendar-and-clock-for-a-brain finds respite here on the water. I watch as pueblito after pueblito pass by, along with the familiar calls of comida, comida, hay comida; churros; agua, agua, as vendors come aboard with their wares. A short stop at each port, and we continue onwards, smoothly sailing towards sunset. Our boat, Gilmer, plies the waters between Iquitos and Yurimaguas, bearing us to our next destination, Lagunas. I don´t know what to expect there except, hopefully, tranquility and the jungle. Since leaving the Hummingbird Center for the bustle of Iquitos, I´ve missed the protection and safety of nature: frogs, trees in the wind, intense thunderstorms and sheet lightning, the gentle songs of the jungle... and yes, even the insects... (although my body, thankfully lacking many bites right now, may disagree...)
(I continue to write this from Lagunas, which, luckily, is chock-full of tranquility. Todo bien! Just over 8,000 people call Lagunas ´home´, and after the insanity of Iquitos, this sort of chill´d suits me quite nicely. Despite there being very little food available - restaurants keep short hours - and very little to do in town, it's a nice place to stay for a day or two. More than that might border on madness...)
Dieta began almost 3 weeks ago, when my two friends and I arrived at the home of don Luis, deep in the jungle outside Iquitos. After a ride in a small thatch-roofed boat, bumping along in a motocarro/tuc-tuc, and a long walk through a road-construction site, we came upon a little path into the jungle. Luis lives well outside town, as our wander past little streams, towering trees, vines as thick as my wrist, attests. Muddy, with sweat pouring down my back and missing my sunglasses, Aida, a daughter of Luis, directed to the maloka, where that night the first of three ceremonies would take place.
Our dieta spanned 9 days, and was among the most challenging experiences I´ve yet known. For those of us that know Vipassana meditation, I found many similarities, especially in the sense of general isolation, the very specific kind of mental chatter, and general craziness I experienced in both. For the first three mornings, we were served a tea made from Ajo Sacha, a master plant which reminds one of garlic (although there is no relationship, despite the word ajo meaning `garlic´). Our diet generally consisted of thin vegetable soup, which occasionally contained quinoa, lentils, pasta, or potatoes, served by Luis´ ten (yes, ten!) children. Simple, nutritious, unstimulating, and completely without salt, oil, pork, sugar, spice... or sex. On ceremony days, we ate only once, and fasted to open us deeper for the medicine.
As you can imagine, I didn´t have much energy that week, and found myself occupying myself with some gentle yin yoga, meditation (which I found more difficult than usual), writing a bit, reading, and smoking the odd mapacho (dark jungle tobacco, used in ceremony). The bulk of my time, as is intended, was spent observing nature, most often through the safety of my mosquito net walls. My tambo (jungle hut) was near a giant lupuna tree, which sat as a sentinel, protecting me, visiting in my dreams. By day, monkeys swung through the nearby trees, hummingbirds zoomed along to the next flower, the birds sang their perfectly melodious symphonies, cockroaches scurried by, and lizards crawled along the walls, slurping up unsuspecting mosquitos. Occasionally, Luis´ sons and daughters would wander by, engage in some light conversation, play with the few things I had with me (one son, Luis Sabin, was especially fond of my flashlight, and a Luke Brown hologram I had placed on my alter), then disappear. By night, the real magic shone, as the jungle came to life: crickets and sapos (frogs) sang their cascades of harmony, bats whizzed by, and fireflies shone like mini shooting stars. On some nights, the heavens were torn apart by thunder and lightning, the rain pounded the earth; I lay there mezmorized in sheer awe of nature.
I´ll admit: I went a bit crazy during dieta. Not due to stressful activities, or some sort of pressing issue on my mind... but rather, the simple result of a low-calorie diet, and the feeling of being hungry all the time. And you know what I was craving everyday? Hot buttered toast. Yep... so much so that my blanket smelled like it when I woke in the morning. I´m not sure why, as there was no toast around, and I hadn´t eaten it in ages... but it did. I see now that dieta really opens you up, brings you closer to your body, and forces you to face yourself. And Ajo Sacha helps with that. From what I understand, the plant was used by native peoples here as a hunter´s tool, to help cover up the human scent. As such, it assists one in ´stalking´ their internal / mental issues, to identify the blockages in their life. It also helps instill motivation for change, a drive to resolve issues and initiate growth. All three of us noticed this, especially after I found myself writing out exactly what I want to do and achieve in my life upon returning home. Plus, I compiled lists of how to improve the Sanctuary at Entheos this year. So, you could say the slight craziness I experienced was in many was beneficial :) Although looking over my journal entires from dieta, one might wonder...
The day following our last ceremony brought the end of dieta, which requires a special process. Post-ceremony, we were bathed in water steeped with Ajo Sacha (I smelled like garlic all day!). Luis came to see me late in the afternnon, with a bowl of chopped onion, salt, and lime juice. Sound gross? It was actually one of the tastiest things I´ve ever eaten. This food helps to signal to our bodies the end of dieta: salt, to close the body energetically; lime juice, to shock and refresh the system; and onion, to heat and stimulate us. After, a final song and energentic cleansing by Luis, and it was over. I left the tambo, and immediately sought my friends for a big hug, which, besides fat/hot buttered toast, was the thing I looked forward to most.
What I looked forward to least was the city: returning to Iquitos the next day was a major shock. After atuning to the tranquility and slow pace of nature, the general insanity in town was almost too much. Yet, a quick in and out got us back to the Hummingbird, where I spent the next 2 days headachy, sick, and generally ill. It turns out that: A) I shouldn´t have eaten quite so much food in Iquitos post-dieta (especially … ugh... peanuts. What was I thinking?!?); and B) I ate some meat for dinner at the Hummingbird which was too much for me. Plus, I think the city energy had something to do with it. We were therefore given another jungle medicine, chuchuwasi, which really helped control things.
As well... if you can believe it, our good friend, Neith, also happened to be a guest at the Hummingbird at the very same time I was getting back! SO great to see a friend from home, a fellow tribie, and a wonderful boost for my spirits. I´m eternally grateful to the universe for helping keep me connected with my family, despite being so far away... :)
(On a side note: I have also become a total believer in jungle medicine, a whole-hearted convert. Any time I´ve been at all sick, and taken jungle medicine to treat it, I´ve very soon after felt amazing!)
If you walk into the front doors of the big house at the Hummingbird, you see written there the `four immutable laws of the universe´, which contains the gem: `when it´s over, it´s over´. How true. With that in mind, I left the Hummingbird a few days later, confident that my time was complete. I think back fondly on my experience there: wonderful new friends, a warm, inspiring, supportive environment (including composting toilets, which I´m really motivated to build!), good medicine, and the peace and tranquility to just be my rediculous self. Plus, I read some great books! If any of you folks are planning to visit Peru, consider volunteering at the Hummingbird Center.
Anyways, back in Iquitos, I slid into a hostal, there to nurse myself back to 100%. Besides, my previous travel companion, Lydia, from Germany, was scheduled to arrive on the 7th. With a full hostal kitchen, I could finally completely control my diet, which was still restricted by a post-dieta. `Hooray`, screamed my body, `for salad, vegetables, lentils, fish, quinoa, yogurt, and simple foods`!
So, what did I do for my birthday? Well... there´s a well-known tourist attraction near Iquitos, the Pilpantuwasi Butterfly Farm. After breakfast and a lazy morning (in which I received an origami penguin!), Lydia and I took a boat to Padre Cocha, and took in the butterflies. Initially started many years ago by a gringo woman, Pilpintuwasi has grown to include a sanctuary for orphaned and confiscated jungle animals. During a tour from an excited and knowledgable, although quick to move, tour guide, we learned that there are 43 varieties of butterflies raised on the farm, including several species of rare moths. Each moth or butterfly has a very specific host plant, which is cultivated with great care. Much work goes into eliminating pests from the eggs, keeping the caterpillars safe from predators, and protecting the crysalids. The results are spectacular, as butterflies of brilliant colors swoop through the air, and dazzle the senses. There´s also a species of moth there with translucent ´windows´ in it´s wings!
The farm also hosts many jungle animals, such as manitees, some huge rodents, parrots, caiman, monkeys, aligators, a jaguar, an ocelot and anaconda, as well as several other species of jungle birds. Although I would prefer to see these animals in the wild, these ones are better off here, than as pets for someone, or killed for their parts.
(Two little known facts about butterflies: 1) catterpillars do not simply grow new appendages and become butterflies. They actually dissolve themselves into a genetic goo inside their crysalys, and are completely reborn as a butterfly. 2) Have you noticed that butterflies aren´t really active in the heat of the day? This is because the butterflies wing muscles are composed of a jelly-like substance, which will harden if exposed to temperatures over 43 degress celsius. Cool, eh?)
After the tour, and our failed second attempt to see the manitees (although we did see an aligator raise it´s head for a while), we came home... where I was presented a surprise birthday cake by the owner of the hostal, Paola, and her family! Photos, rounds of singing, and general rediculousness ensued, and the night ended just right, on the upstairs patio, visiting with friends new and old(er) over ice-cold beers. I love birthdays while travelling :)
I can´t say much about the last few days... not because I´d have to kill you if I did. Rather, it was just preparations for leaving: wandering through the Belen market on a hammock hunt, gathering fruits and veggies, looking at jungle medicines in the `Shaman` Market (perhaps for the last time), and enjoying the last (smoke-filled) breaths of Iquitos. We put off catching a boat for a few days, and left the morning of the 14th. After over 5 weeks there, I´m thrilled to have left Iquitos. It´s a nice place, and I´m glad to have been there... but, well, it was over. My backpack, though, is filled with memories and little pieces of the jungle, including mapacho, paulo santo, some handicrafts, and quite a few Shipibo tapestries (which I´ll one day put up in the house I don´t currently have).
Yesterday evening, we boarded the riverboat Gilmer, and began the slow (although by local standards, fast), leisurly trip up-river to Lagunas. The only foreigners on the boat, we slung up our hammocks on the second deck, and settled in nicely. The food is simple and reasonably appealing (mmmm, cooked in somewhat sketchy river water!), and when it´s not unbelieveably hot and I´m not sleeping (or wishing I was sleeping), some really friendly children come over and engage us in conversation, pointing out jungle animals (I saw river dolphins!), asking me about home and my hammock, and why I have tattoos and piercings, while inquisitivly pawing through my books. They've certainly made the trip more colorful :) Tonight, we watched an absolutely remarkable sunset, with some of the most vibrant reds, oranges, and pinks I´ve ever seen, as if the sun held brúshes upon the canvass of the sky. Tomorrow afternoon, we arrive in Lagunas, with our fingers crossed that there´s a place to stay, and the hopes that jungle treks aren´t that expensive. The Parque National Pacaya-Samira is just outside Lagunas, and I don´t think I could leave the jungle without going deep into old-growth, and experiencing the real magic.
(Again, as I finish writing this, I´m in a hostal in Lagunas. The final day of our boat trip was smooth... although I had the embarassing experience of locking our keys in our cabino, and having to ask the crew to come pry the lock off, which was a bit of a scene. The day´s sweltering heat was calmed by late afternoon rain, a welcome relief which also produced a faint, yet brilliant rainbow. Finally, the dock in Lagunas is little more than a long piece of wood ramped down the side of the boat, which I surely could have fallen off. Our feet on land again, and as we´d lounged in hammocks for three days, we insisted upon walking into town, which brought us upon a clean, bright, friendly hospedaje... for less than $4 each a night. The owner introduced us to his friend, who runs a jungle tour agency. A long conversation later, over some well-deserved beer, we´re probably going to book a 4-day jungle trek in the park for friday to monday. It´ll be muddy, wet, and flooded with mosquitos... and it´ll be the jungle! I think we´ll be some of the only travellers there, drifting along in canoes, wandering down paths in knee-high gum-boots, and hopefully scoping out local flora and fauna. Besides... when our agent, Genaro, mentioned Ajo Sacha in his description of the local plants, I figured I was meant to go. And the price, while not totally in my budget, feels right...)
In closing... I´m happy and healthy (yes, I´ve put weight back on after dieta...), and VERY excited to be on the move again, to finally see some place new, and continue to experience the magic of Peru. This land has really captured my heart... and I can see myself coming back here many, many more times.
To all my friends and family: thank you SO much for the nice birthday wishes, and the little messages of love. I really appreciate hearing a bit from my loved ones back home – especially all the way down here. I can´t wait to reconnect in the summer!
Until then...
Paz, luz, amor, y many blessings,
Chris / Nagdeo /Gnome
Thursday, March 10, 2011
The Hot, Sweaty Jungle... and it feels so good...
Buenos dias, my friends and family!
As I sit here writing, in a cyber-cafe on Plaza de Armas, in Iquitos, there's a lot going on around me. I'm enveloped by tranquil, slightly cheesy latino acordian sould music, while outside motocarros (think tuc-tucs, 3 wheeled motorcycles with rickshaws on the back) whizz past like continuous swarms of ants. There are many languages being skype'd all over the world, whiloe my head slightly aches from a combination of loud city energy and my own stupidity of not srinking enough water yesterday. As well... there's coffee in my veins.
That said... today's a pretty awesome day!
I'm currently in Iquitos, the slightly-manic jungle town smack in the middle of the Peruvian Amazon. With about 300,000 people (probably more if you count the various shanty towns), this is the largest city unreachable by road in the world. It was initially settled by Jesuits as a mission in the 1750's, and saw a major boom through the rubber industry, and more recently through oil exploration. It's reachable by boat from the atlantic, while smaller lanchas ply the waters constantly. Nearby, there are scores of small communities, especially for the local indiginous people. The archetecture is widly divergent, with many old colonial buildings juxtaposed to simple, mud-brick peruvian structures, as well as many in the more modern, western-style.
I arrived here by plane on the 4th of February, opting to fly simply due to time constraints (I was due to start volunteering here on the 4th or so, and wanted to have a bit more time in Cusco... you know how it is...). The flight was quick, beautiful, and gave me the experience of disembarking on the tarmac, and walking into the airport, which was admitedly pretty fun. I spent 2 days in town, soaking up the heat (while sweating it out!), eating all manners of jungle fruit, wandering through the markets, and watching the river float by. Iquitos isn't actually on the Amazon, but sits right next to the confluence of several rivers, which form the Amazon. And it's a fast river!!
The city is a major hub for tourism, especially for jungle tours, ayahuasca retreats, and people looking for healing in the jungle. You can arrange to visit small villages, meet shamans (I prefer the term ´curanderos´, or 'one who cures´), and generally explore this region. Obviously, the locals have picked up on this, and (sometimes aggressivly) sell their wares in tourist areas. It's sometimes quite difficult to go anywhere around Plaza de Armas, and not be pressured into buying something. However, I've found a few really amazing Shipibo women in the small art market, and have bought some *beautiful* shipibo textiles.
The city is reachable by plane (1 1/2 hours from Lima), or by river (4-6 days on a river boat). Although I flew in, I plan to lazily move up-river on my way back... swinging in my hammock the whole way :)
Several trips through town have found me in Belen Market... which has to be one of the biggest I've seen. Imagne almost 10 city blocks of market, with everything you could possibly imagine, from shoes, industrial equipment, and knick-kncks, to fruit, vegetables, and food vendors (mmmmmm.....), to traditional medicines, arts and crafts, auto parts, and psychotropics. The so-called ´shaman's market´is particularly interesting, where you can buy preparations of jungle medicines, different herbs, incense, lots of heavy, black tobacco (called ´mapacho´), and other medicines. Quite the sight... every time I go, I find new things to check out, and am developing a slight familiarity with some of them.
Google 'Iquitos' online for picutres, and more info :)
After two days, I managed to arrange a pick-up, and made it out to the Hummingbird center. It's about 14 km from Iquitos, near the village of Valilllar. Run by an Australian woman and her American business partner, the place is a haven for people coming to the region to experience healing from addiction, stress, and depression, using the sacred Ayahuasca medicine. I met a whole bunch of really amazing people upon arrival, and have spent my days cleaning, holding space, taking care of guest's needs, reading (a LOT), and swinging lazily in my hammock (a LOT, too). It's been a great place to spend my days, and through connecting with some of the guests and volunteers, as well as through ceremony and personal processes, I've learned a lot more about living in the heart, taking care of my needs, and enjoying the simple pleasures of life. Among the most profound experiences has been simply lying in the moloca, and listening to the symphony of sound emanating from the evening orchestra of frogs, insects, birds, and crickets. Completely out of this world... yet so in it. An amazing lesson in being present...
more online: http://www.ayahuascaretreats.org/
Yesterday, some friends and I cruised up-river, in order to see a local curandero. As he was not in, we stayed the night (and got eaten alive by bugs), then returned to Iquitos. Tomorrow, my friend and I will return to Don Luis', and begin an 8-day plant dieta. Low calorie intake (only lentils and quinoa), no sex/sugar/oil/salt/pork, lots of sleep, lots of water, meditation, light yoga, contemplation, and prayer, all the while drinking plant preparations. The idea is to learn from the plant directly, in order to approach it as an ally, and be able to call on it in times of need, for protection and aid. Although I'm not sure what plant I'll be dieting, I feel called and moved to participate. Here, I dive into the unknown, with an open heart and mind, ready to listen to and learn from the plants. Humbling, when I think about it...
I plan to return to Iquitos around the 1st of March, and then spend 10 days volunteering at Hummingbird, before moving on. I'm feeling the slight desire to get moving now... but I figure that's actually an unconscious part of my ego resisting the process of deep work within myself. I trust that this is exactly the place I'm meant to be, at exactly the right time. As the sign at the Hummingbird reminds us: 'you are NOT an accident! The universe needs you, right here, right now'. Awesome :)
Through this whole process, especially in ceremony, I'm reminded (constantly), about the amazing people in my life. You're too many to name individually, but I feel incredible gratitude to each and every one of you for your gifts of presence and light in my life. It takes a village to raise a child, and I´m so thankful that you folks have been (and continue to be) my village, my allies, my friends, my family. Bless you all :)
Until next time... paz, luz, y amor
Chris / Nagdeo / Gnome
As I sit here writing, in a cyber-cafe on Plaza de Armas, in Iquitos, there's a lot going on around me. I'm enveloped by tranquil, slightly cheesy latino acordian sould music, while outside motocarros (think tuc-tucs, 3 wheeled motorcycles with rickshaws on the back) whizz past like continuous swarms of ants. There are many languages being skype'd all over the world, whiloe my head slightly aches from a combination of loud city energy and my own stupidity of not srinking enough water yesterday. As well... there's coffee in my veins.
That said... today's a pretty awesome day!
I'm currently in Iquitos, the slightly-manic jungle town smack in the middle of the Peruvian Amazon. With about 300,000 people (probably more if you count the various shanty towns), this is the largest city unreachable by road in the world. It was initially settled by Jesuits as a mission in the 1750's, and saw a major boom through the rubber industry, and more recently through oil exploration. It's reachable by boat from the atlantic, while smaller lanchas ply the waters constantly. Nearby, there are scores of small communities, especially for the local indiginous people. The archetecture is widly divergent, with many old colonial buildings juxtaposed to simple, mud-brick peruvian structures, as well as many in the more modern, western-style.
I arrived here by plane on the 4th of February, opting to fly simply due to time constraints (I was due to start volunteering here on the 4th or so, and wanted to have a bit more time in Cusco... you know how it is...). The flight was quick, beautiful, and gave me the experience of disembarking on the tarmac, and walking into the airport, which was admitedly pretty fun. I spent 2 days in town, soaking up the heat (while sweating it out!), eating all manners of jungle fruit, wandering through the markets, and watching the river float by. Iquitos isn't actually on the Amazon, but sits right next to the confluence of several rivers, which form the Amazon. And it's a fast river!!
The city is a major hub for tourism, especially for jungle tours, ayahuasca retreats, and people looking for healing in the jungle. You can arrange to visit small villages, meet shamans (I prefer the term ´curanderos´, or 'one who cures´), and generally explore this region. Obviously, the locals have picked up on this, and (sometimes aggressivly) sell their wares in tourist areas. It's sometimes quite difficult to go anywhere around Plaza de Armas, and not be pressured into buying something. However, I've found a few really amazing Shipibo women in the small art market, and have bought some *beautiful* shipibo textiles.
The city is reachable by plane (1 1/2 hours from Lima), or by river (4-6 days on a river boat). Although I flew in, I plan to lazily move up-river on my way back... swinging in my hammock the whole way :)
Several trips through town have found me in Belen Market... which has to be one of the biggest I've seen. Imagne almost 10 city blocks of market, with everything you could possibly imagine, from shoes, industrial equipment, and knick-kncks, to fruit, vegetables, and food vendors (mmmmmm.....), to traditional medicines, arts and crafts, auto parts, and psychotropics. The so-called ´shaman's market´is particularly interesting, where you can buy preparations of jungle medicines, different herbs, incense, lots of heavy, black tobacco (called ´mapacho´), and other medicines. Quite the sight... every time I go, I find new things to check out, and am developing a slight familiarity with some of them.
Google 'Iquitos' online for picutres, and more info :)
After two days, I managed to arrange a pick-up, and made it out to the Hummingbird center. It's about 14 km from Iquitos, near the village of Valilllar. Run by an Australian woman and her American business partner, the place is a haven for people coming to the region to experience healing from addiction, stress, and depression, using the sacred Ayahuasca medicine. I met a whole bunch of really amazing people upon arrival, and have spent my days cleaning, holding space, taking care of guest's needs, reading (a LOT), and swinging lazily in my hammock (a LOT, too). It's been a great place to spend my days, and through connecting with some of the guests and volunteers, as well as through ceremony and personal processes, I've learned a lot more about living in the heart, taking care of my needs, and enjoying the simple pleasures of life. Among the most profound experiences has been simply lying in the moloca, and listening to the symphony of sound emanating from the evening orchestra of frogs, insects, birds, and crickets. Completely out of this world... yet so in it. An amazing lesson in being present...
more online: http://www.ayahuascaretreats.org/
Yesterday, some friends and I cruised up-river, in order to see a local curandero. As he was not in, we stayed the night (and got eaten alive by bugs), then returned to Iquitos. Tomorrow, my friend and I will return to Don Luis', and begin an 8-day plant dieta. Low calorie intake (only lentils and quinoa), no sex/sugar/oil/salt/pork, lots of sleep, lots of water, meditation, light yoga, contemplation, and prayer, all the while drinking plant preparations. The idea is to learn from the plant directly, in order to approach it as an ally, and be able to call on it in times of need, for protection and aid. Although I'm not sure what plant I'll be dieting, I feel called and moved to participate. Here, I dive into the unknown, with an open heart and mind, ready to listen to and learn from the plants. Humbling, when I think about it...
I plan to return to Iquitos around the 1st of March, and then spend 10 days volunteering at Hummingbird, before moving on. I'm feeling the slight desire to get moving now... but I figure that's actually an unconscious part of my ego resisting the process of deep work within myself. I trust that this is exactly the place I'm meant to be, at exactly the right time. As the sign at the Hummingbird reminds us: 'you are NOT an accident! The universe needs you, right here, right now'. Awesome :)
Through this whole process, especially in ceremony, I'm reminded (constantly), about the amazing people in my life. You're too many to name individually, but I feel incredible gratitude to each and every one of you for your gifts of presence and light in my life. It takes a village to raise a child, and I´m so thankful that you folks have been (and continue to be) my village, my allies, my friends, my family. Bless you all :)
Until next time... paz, luz, y amor
Chris / Nagdeo / Gnome
Thoughts from Afar
¡Hola, mi familia!
It's the rainy season in Peru. I'm mildly wet, and hanging out in the town of Ollantaytambo. It's close to Cusco, and along the way to Machu Picchu. I had originally planned to catch the 7 pm train to Aguas Calientes... but the three people in front of me bought the last three tickets. So... I'm on an 11 pm train, and won't be able to buy my tourist ticket until tomorrow morning, which means no sunrise at the ruins.
Plus, to top it off... I forgot my camera batteries at the hostal :(
However, I suppose this creates the opportunity for me to hang out online while it rains, and wait it out by writing to you all!
(Update: as I'm finishing this, I'm in a Hostal down the road. Thinking the unierse was rearranging things for me, I met someone who wanted to switch to the later train... only to find that since my name didn't end up on the list, I wasn't allowed on! SO I'm staying the night here, and will be doing Machu Picchu on Tuesday, before I leave the Sacred Valley).
As of.... right now! .... Peru has completely captured my heart and imagination. Seriously... this is an incredible land!
Despite slight delays in transport (usual down here), completely insane driving (like most other less-developed places), and the occasional stomach upset, things are flowing smooth as silk. A perfect flow...
Each day brings new experiences in my heart and mind, new challenges (especially in language, although I'm learning), and greater openness. Plus, a combination of GREAT food (yep, it's true!) and way more sunlight than I'm used to, is leaving me feeling energized and very much alive.
(Athough the altitude up here in the Andes leaves one pretty winded sometimes... thank the universe for coca, and mid-afternoon naps)
Flying into Lima was a beautiful experience. I watched little twinkling lights as I flew over Central America, Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru, amazed by the sheer size of land I was covering. 5254 miles, to be exact, from Vancouver to Lima.
Lima, however, is anything but a pretty city. Although it does have it's nice parts (especially Miraflores, where I stayed), Lima is an unbelieveably HUGE city, population about 10 million. It's loud, dirty urban sprawl at it's finest...
From what I learned, Lima's population exploded in the last 20 years, the result of massive rural migration during the civil wars and conflicts of the 1980's. Going from 2 to 10 million people meant huge stress on infrastructure.... and thus, the metropolis we know today.
Like I said, my hostal was in Miraflores, the nicest part of the city (where all the tourists, of course, hang out). Literally minutes from the coast. My first morning (after a VERY long sleep), I made good friends with Lydia, a German woman who arrived the same day. Bonding over the fascenating and deeply involved process of boiling hot water for tea (mate!), we started travelling together for the next few weeks.
That day, a group of us wandered through town, ate some amazing (and quite expensive) Peruvian food, and enjoyed the sights and sounds of Lima. Founded in 1535 by the Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro, the city is reputed to have the best of Peruvian cuisine, some of the most beautiful architecture and museums in Peru, and really amazing seafood. Mmmm.... Ceviche!
During the rest of the day's wandering, we met a really lovely man, Alejandro, in parque de amor (which features really cute love-related quotes inset in walls, encircling a huge sculpture of a couple making love). Over the next few hours, we ate a big mango together, talked of life and love, played some music, chewed the sacred coca leaves, and watched the sun set. Alejandro was on his way to the airport for a flight to Mexico, so it was a perfect moment for us to to connect with a brother, and learn a bit about the land I'm spending this time in.
I will admit, though: leaving Lima was a total relief. I'm just not cut out for huge, crazy cities.
Our plans coinciding, we left for Cusco on friday, beginning a 22-hour bus odyssey from sea-level to 11,000 feet.
Cusco is the center of the former Inca empire, and is considered by many to the the sacred navel of the earth, of Panchamama.
Cusco is simply amazing. Nestled in a beautiful valley, surrounded by spectacular peaks and citadels of stone, Cusco stands out as an amazing place.... no wonder the Inca settled there! Protected with mountains vast, noutrished by fertile soil and the gifts of the earth, the Inca really had an amazing thing going! Although the Spanish plundered the city and stripped it of it's golden splendor (apparently, the city used to shimmer blindingly...), there's still a few examples of Inca archetecture: the famous 12-sided stone (most sides cut on any stone by the Inca), the ruins of Sacsayhuamán (sexy woman... hahaha), an Inca military fortress where the Spanish won a major victory over the Inca (Most of the stones of Sacsayhuamán were subsequently removed from the site, and used to build structures in Cusco), and the terraces built for agriculture, which are still used today.
I've been staying at a place called Hostal Magico, about 15 min walk from the center of town. Upon seeing the brilliant blue door, I knew I was in the right place :) The hostal is part of a non-profit group that supports a small local school, Aldea Yanapay, where underprivledged children get an amzing learning environment in which to thrive. The school accepts volunteers, most of whom stay at the hostal, incuding another solid friend, Selka, from Denmark. The volunteers are the teachers, and create lesson plans, play with the kids, and generally make a world of difference. I spent two afternoons playing games with the littlest kids, the 'delfins', and really enjoyed being 'Proffe Chris'. And having kids pull on my dreads and wonder about my eccentiricites is pretty sweet :) There's more online: http://www.aldeayanapay.org/
After a few days of being sick (and chewing lots of coca to get better), I began to get out and see the city. The Plaza de Armas is always buzzing with people, while you can get almost anything you want in the Mercado Central (including: live frogs, an abundance of fruit, veggies galore, all sorts of meat, Ayahuasca and San Pedro, fresh HUGE juices of all things yummy, mountains of herbs that I don't recognize, really delicious and inexpensive meals). I've found a few vendor ladies that I always go back to, and who seem to know what I want before even I do...
I also spent a week doing Spanish lessons.... which is a relief, as I really needed to improve. I've since learned how to express myself in the past tense (simply), and say what I want to do, say, tomorrow. I also learned a nuch of new verbs.... although I still find myself whipping out the dictionary a lot. But there's still 3 1/2 months to go...
As for right now... I'm in the Sacred Valley. I came here yesterday, and am absolutely captivated. It's amazing.... and oh so sacred. There's an indescribable energy here, one that permeates all things. You just need to experience it...
My heart feels truely alive, and I'm thankful for all the wonderful people around me here, old friends and new. I met up with Jordan this week, and it's been great to have a brother from back home here in Peru, to share experinces with. I also randomly met up with my friend Jenna, who I met on Ometepe in Nicaragua, when we were both on the way to the same restaurant for dinner. So trippy :)
I wish I could post pictures online.... but I don't currently have any way to get pics off my camera onto the net. When I remedy this, you'll know :)
So... yeah. That's life thus far. This week... I'll be doing Machu Picchu, spending a bit more time just outside of Pisaq with some friends, and soaking up the Sacred Valley. From there, I make my way to Iquitos, in the north. Which will be written about later...
For a sneak peek: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iquitos
Thanks for all the love and light from back home... I appreciate the beautiful little words of wisdom and love shared. It does indeed touch me, alllllll the way down here.
Much love and blessings from the Sacred Valley,
Chris / Nagdeo / Gnome
It's the rainy season in Peru. I'm mildly wet, and hanging out in the town of Ollantaytambo. It's close to Cusco, and along the way to Machu Picchu. I had originally planned to catch the 7 pm train to Aguas Calientes... but the three people in front of me bought the last three tickets. So... I'm on an 11 pm train, and won't be able to buy my tourist ticket until tomorrow morning, which means no sunrise at the ruins.
Plus, to top it off... I forgot my camera batteries at the hostal :(
However, I suppose this creates the opportunity for me to hang out online while it rains, and wait it out by writing to you all!
(Update: as I'm finishing this, I'm in a Hostal down the road. Thinking the unierse was rearranging things for me, I met someone who wanted to switch to the later train... only to find that since my name didn't end up on the list, I wasn't allowed on! SO I'm staying the night here, and will be doing Machu Picchu on Tuesday, before I leave the Sacred Valley).
As of.... right now! .... Peru has completely captured my heart and imagination. Seriously... this is an incredible land!
Despite slight delays in transport (usual down here), completely insane driving (like most other less-developed places), and the occasional stomach upset, things are flowing smooth as silk. A perfect flow...
Each day brings new experiences in my heart and mind, new challenges (especially in language, although I'm learning), and greater openness. Plus, a combination of GREAT food (yep, it's true!) and way more sunlight than I'm used to, is leaving me feeling energized and very much alive.
(Athough the altitude up here in the Andes leaves one pretty winded sometimes... thank the universe for coca, and mid-afternoon naps)
Flying into Lima was a beautiful experience. I watched little twinkling lights as I flew over Central America, Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru, amazed by the sheer size of land I was covering. 5254 miles, to be exact, from Vancouver to Lima.
Lima, however, is anything but a pretty city. Although it does have it's nice parts (especially Miraflores, where I stayed), Lima is an unbelieveably HUGE city, population about 10 million. It's loud, dirty urban sprawl at it's finest...
From what I learned, Lima's population exploded in the last 20 years, the result of massive rural migration during the civil wars and conflicts of the 1980's. Going from 2 to 10 million people meant huge stress on infrastructure.... and thus, the metropolis we know today.
Like I said, my hostal was in Miraflores, the nicest part of the city (where all the tourists, of course, hang out). Literally minutes from the coast. My first morning (after a VERY long sleep), I made good friends with Lydia, a German woman who arrived the same day. Bonding over the fascenating and deeply involved process of boiling hot water for tea (mate!), we started travelling together for the next few weeks.
That day, a group of us wandered through town, ate some amazing (and quite expensive) Peruvian food, and enjoyed the sights and sounds of Lima. Founded in 1535 by the Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro, the city is reputed to have the best of Peruvian cuisine, some of the most beautiful architecture and museums in Peru, and really amazing seafood. Mmmm.... Ceviche!
During the rest of the day's wandering, we met a really lovely man, Alejandro, in parque de amor (which features really cute love-related quotes inset in walls, encircling a huge sculpture of a couple making love). Over the next few hours, we ate a big mango together, talked of life and love, played some music, chewed the sacred coca leaves, and watched the sun set. Alejandro was on his way to the airport for a flight to Mexico, so it was a perfect moment for us to to connect with a brother, and learn a bit about the land I'm spending this time in.
I will admit, though: leaving Lima was a total relief. I'm just not cut out for huge, crazy cities.
Our plans coinciding, we left for Cusco on friday, beginning a 22-hour bus odyssey from sea-level to 11,000 feet.
Cusco is the center of the former Inca empire, and is considered by many to the the sacred navel of the earth, of Panchamama.
Cusco is simply amazing. Nestled in a beautiful valley, surrounded by spectacular peaks and citadels of stone, Cusco stands out as an amazing place.... no wonder the Inca settled there! Protected with mountains vast, noutrished by fertile soil and the gifts of the earth, the Inca really had an amazing thing going! Although the Spanish plundered the city and stripped it of it's golden splendor (apparently, the city used to shimmer blindingly...), there's still a few examples of Inca archetecture: the famous 12-sided stone (most sides cut on any stone by the Inca), the ruins of Sacsayhuamán (sexy woman... hahaha), an Inca military fortress where the Spanish won a major victory over the Inca (Most of the stones of Sacsayhuamán were subsequently removed from the site, and used to build structures in Cusco), and the terraces built for agriculture, which are still used today.
I've been staying at a place called Hostal Magico, about 15 min walk from the center of town. Upon seeing the brilliant blue door, I knew I was in the right place :) The hostal is part of a non-profit group that supports a small local school, Aldea Yanapay, where underprivledged children get an amzing learning environment in which to thrive. The school accepts volunteers, most of whom stay at the hostal, incuding another solid friend, Selka, from Denmark. The volunteers are the teachers, and create lesson plans, play with the kids, and generally make a world of difference. I spent two afternoons playing games with the littlest kids, the 'delfins', and really enjoyed being 'Proffe Chris'. And having kids pull on my dreads and wonder about my eccentiricites is pretty sweet :) There's more online: http://www.aldeayanapay.org/
After a few days of being sick (and chewing lots of coca to get better), I began to get out and see the city. The Plaza de Armas is always buzzing with people, while you can get almost anything you want in the Mercado Central (including: live frogs, an abundance of fruit, veggies galore, all sorts of meat, Ayahuasca and San Pedro, fresh HUGE juices of all things yummy, mountains of herbs that I don't recognize, really delicious and inexpensive meals). I've found a few vendor ladies that I always go back to, and who seem to know what I want before even I do...
I also spent a week doing Spanish lessons.... which is a relief, as I really needed to improve. I've since learned how to express myself in the past tense (simply), and say what I want to do, say, tomorrow. I also learned a nuch of new verbs.... although I still find myself whipping out the dictionary a lot. But there's still 3 1/2 months to go...
As for right now... I'm in the Sacred Valley. I came here yesterday, and am absolutely captivated. It's amazing.... and oh so sacred. There's an indescribable energy here, one that permeates all things. You just need to experience it...
My heart feels truely alive, and I'm thankful for all the wonderful people around me here, old friends and new. I met up with Jordan this week, and it's been great to have a brother from back home here in Peru, to share experinces with. I also randomly met up with my friend Jenna, who I met on Ometepe in Nicaragua, when we were both on the way to the same restaurant for dinner. So trippy :)
I wish I could post pictures online.... but I don't currently have any way to get pics off my camera onto the net. When I remedy this, you'll know :)
So... yeah. That's life thus far. This week... I'll be doing Machu Picchu, spending a bit more time just outside of Pisaq with some friends, and soaking up the Sacred Valley. From there, I make my way to Iquitos, in the north. Which will be written about later...
For a sneak peek: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iquitos
Thanks for all the love and light from back home... I appreciate the beautiful little words of wisdom and love shared. It does indeed touch me, alllllll the way down here.
Much love and blessings from the Sacred Valley,
Chris / Nagdeo / Gnome
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